Posted on 15th Dec 2024
Back in the day, classic round pearls were all anyone wore either in long ropes like Coco Chanel or classic collars and always white. How times have changed! Now we have dozens of shapes created in many locations and colors.
NATURAL VS CULTURED PEARLS
There are two types of pearlst: natural and cultured. While both are authentic gemstones, they differ in terms of their formation.
Natural pearls are formed within the soft tissue of living shelled molluscs, such as mussels and oysters. When a minuscule irritant enters the mollusc, it triggers a defensive response. The mollusc begins layering the irritant with nacre, which gives the pearl its shine.
In contrast, cultured pearls are genuine pearls that develop within the soft tissue of living shelled molluscs through farming and harvesting. The distinction lies in the fact that in cultured pearls, humans intervene by deliberately introducing the microscopic irritant into the mollusc. The creature then covers the irritant with nacre, resulting in the formation of a pearl.
It is important to note that natural and cultured pearls share the same composition and appearance. The difference lies in their origin, rarity, and price, with natural pearls being exceptionally rare and expensive. Consequently, the majority of pearls available in the market today are cultured.
Most cultured pearls are grown in Chinese and Japanese waters. They are generally around 2mm, but in some rare cases can be as large as 10mm. They are round, and usually cream or white coloured. They come from the Pinctada fucata martensii oyster, which are fairly small- thus produce the smaller pearls. Akoyas were originally imported to the US by Mikimoto. Though, the quality has fallen off due to the primary source of the pearls being moved to China. Despite that, Mikimoto is still the most widely distributed brand of the pearl. Mikimoto branded pearls command a premium price, that doesn’t always match the quality being sold.
Saltwater vs. Freshwater
Saltwater pearls are formed within oysters that live in oceans and are typically harvested in Indonesia, the Philippines, Australia, China, Japan, French Polynesia, and the South Pacific Islands. These pearls are cultivated in volcanic atolls and protected lagoons. While saltwater pearls take longer to form, they possess superior lustre, indicating higher quality compared to freshwater pearls. However, saltwater pearls tend to be more expensive and may be less durable.
Freshwater pearls, on the other hand, are formed within various species of freshwater mussels found in lakes, rivers, ponds, and other sources of freshwater. They are commonly harvested in countries like China, Japan, Australia, India, and the United States. Freshwater pearls are generally more affordable and require less time to develop. However, they may lack the same level of lustre as saltwater pearls and tend to be smaller in size.
Here is a list of the many types of pearls.
This pearl is produced in the Philippines, Australia, and Indonesia. It’s the largest of all pearls and ranges in size from 9mm to 20mm. They can be cream, white, or golden. South Sea Pearls are cherished for the classic color and exceptional sizes
Despite the name, Tahitian pearls are not exclusively produced in Tahiti. They’re grown throughout several of the French Polynesian islands. Their size generally ranges between 8mm and 16mm. These pearls are naturally coloured in ranges of blue, purple, green and grey, but they are collectively known as black pearls. The Tahitian pearl comes from the black lip oyster.
Tahitian pearls are considered the most striking, sought-after pearls on the market now. While they are often described as black, their colours cover the complete spectrum from dark-black to silver-white, and almost every colour in between, including the most accepted peacock and green. The colors of these Tahitian pearls are completely natural and guaranteed to be unprocessed.
Blue Pearls
For example:
Freshwater Pearls
Akoya Pearls
Biwa Pearls
South Sea Pearls
Baroque Pearls
In Japanese, Keshi means “poppy seed." The word is used to depict smaller-than-average, seed-sized pearls originated as by-products of the pearl culturing method. Once the debris enters an oyster during the harvesting process, this oyster encloses the debris with nacre, thus producing Keshi pearls.
Some additional shapes for Keshi pearls include flat, rectangle, oval, or off-round (seemingly round but actually slightly flat or oval). These pearls arrive in different colours, such as white, rose, grey, black, and many more. Due to their broad nacre composition, they are extremely glossy and flickering. However, South Sea Keshi pearl and Tahitian Keshi pearl are the most popular varieties.
Imitation Pearls
Imitation pearls are usually just a glass bead that has been coated. They tend to have a high lustre, but not to the same depth as high-quality cultured pearls.
It should be relatively easy to separate an imitation pearl from a natural or cultured pearl. However, it can be challenging to differentiate between natural pearls and cultured pearls. Additionally, many pearls go through treatment processes to alter their colour and enhance their lustre.
The treatment affects the value, so it’s important to obtain advice from an experienced jeweller or gemologist.
Pearl Grades
The most difficult aspect of choosing a pearl is the grading. Unfortunately, there is no standard or recognized system for pearl grading. However, Tahitian pearls are slightly different, as the export and grading are under the control of the French Polynesian government.
Pearl Care
As one of the world’s only organic gemstones, pearls are rather delicate. Taking proper care of your pearls is an essential aspect of ensuring your investment lasts a lifetime. Many personal hygiene products like hand sanitizer or beauty products such as hairspray and perfume can damage the beauty and lustre of a peal. You should always invest in a pearl care kit for your pearl jewellery.
Holistic Aspects Of Pearls
Pearls are one of the traditional June birthstones. They're believed to symbolize clarity, virtue, and conviction. They also enhance personal reliability and facilitate clearing the mind so that it can be a fresh channel for astuteness and spiritual awareness.
These gems were once considered tears of gods. These are moon- and water-ruled stones that enhance sincerity, wisdom, and fidelity. Pearls also bring a soothing effect as well, attuning you to the ebb and flow of life.
They are believed to provide clarity, trust, and reliability, especially personal truthfulness. Due to its diluted and lunar factors, the pearl is quite good for balancing emotions. Pearls facilitate an individual to connect with Goddess energy, the ultimate feminine power.
Pearls are captivating by nature and because of this, they must be used with concern. If you feel extremely negative while using a pearl, it will hold that energy until it is used again. Pearl is produced by a layer of substance to offset irritation, making it potentially nurturing. If this is used accurately, it can minimize stress and relieve maladies such as hypertension, headaches, and fatigue.
If using peals with other stones, consider diamonds to strengthen and distill, taking the harmful energy out and diffusing it as much as possible. Additionally, it is believed that drinking pearl water habitually over a long period of time will balance hormones. Persistent headaches and migraines may be treated by using a pearl necklace directly on the skin.
SOUTH SEA PEARLS
Regarded as the “Queen of Pearls,” South Sea pearls stand as one of the most coveted varieties among all types of pearls. Cultivated in regions such as Australia, the Philippines, Myanmar (Burma), and Indonesia, they are formed by the Pinctada maxima oysters, the largest pearl oysters in the world. Due to the challenging cultivation process and high failure rate, South Sea pearls rank among the most valuable pearls available in the market.
South Sea pearls exhibit a stunning array of colours, predominantly in white and golden hues, complemented by captivating overtones of pink, green, and blue. Their sizes range from 8mm to 20mm, with an average size of 12mm.
Renowned for their satin-like lustre, graceful appearance, and impressive size, South Sea pearls hold significant allure. It is worth noting that most of these pearls possess irregular shapes, making perfectly spherical specimens exceptionally rare and commanding exorbitant prices.
TAHITIAN PEARLS
Tahitian pearls are highly regarded for their captivating array of colours and striking mirror-like lustre. Originating from French Polynesia, they are produced by the black-lipped Pinctada margaritifera oyster, exclusively found in Tahiti and other islands of French Polynesia. These pearls are among the most coveted and valuable gemstones, as a mere fraction, less than 10%, of the Tahitian pearl harvest yields sellable pearls.
Tahitian pearls boast their inherent rarity as naturally dark gems. They exhibit enchanting colours such as black, dark grey, charcoal, peacock green, and aubergine, adorned with shimmering silver, lavender, and blue overtones. Their sizes typically range from 8mm to 14mm, although they can grow as large as 21mm.
Tahitian pearls showcase a variety of shapes, with round specimens commanding the highest prices and garnering the most attention. Notably, Tahitian pearls are the only type with an internationally accepted standard of quality. To qualify for export from Tahiti, a genuine Tahitian pearl must have a minimum nacre thickness of 0.8mm.
FRESHWATER PEARLS
UNIQUE TYPES OF PEARLS
In addition to saltwater and freshwater pearls, there are distinct types of pearls that stand out due to their specific formation processes.
Baroque Pearls
BAROQUE PEARLS
Baroque pearls are a captivating variety of pearls that possess distinct and unconventional beauty. Unlike traditional spherical pearls, baroque pearls showcase irregular shapes, asymmetrical forms, and unique textures, making each pearl a one-of-a-kind gem.
The irregularity of baroque pearls is a result of their formation process. Instead of growing in a perfectly round manner, these pearls develop in a more freeform manner, influenced by various factors within the mollusc. This natural growth pattern gives rise to a fascinating array of shapes, including elongated drops, twisted contours, and abstract forms reminiscent of organic elements.
Baroque pearls can be found in various types, including saltwater and freshwater varieties. They come in an assortment of colours, ranging from classic white and cream to shades of pink, lavender, silver, and golden hues. Their surfaces may display intriguing textures, such as ridges, ripples, or grooves, adding further character to each pearl.
KESHI PEARLS
Keshi pearls, also referred to as poppy seed pearls or seed pearls, can originate from either saltwater or freshwater sources, and they possess a distinctiveness in their formation. These pearls can be created in various ways, such as when the irritant introduced to the mollusc is expelled before the pearl fully develops or when the nucleus fractures, allowing the pearl sacs to continue growing without it. As a result, keshi pearls exhibit irregular and often asymmetrical shapes. Since these pearls grow without a nucleus, they remain small, typically only reaching a few millimetres in size.
Poppy seed pearls consist entirely of solid nacre and are highly valued for their intense lustre, which is further accentuated by their irregular shapes. They display a range of captivating colours and shades, including white, cream, and lavender.
It is important to note that keshi pearls are not considered traditional pearls, as their formation is a byproduct rather than a deliberate process. With the advancements in pearl farming techniques, keshi pearls are becoming increasingly rare, adding to their allure and exclusivity.
BIWA PEARLS
Biwa pearls, also known as Lake Biwa pearls, are a remarkable variety of freshwater pearls with a rich history and distinctive characteristics. They take their name from Lake Biwa, located in Japan, which was once renowned for its bountiful pearl production.
Biwa pearls gained prominence during the 1970s and 1980s when they were extensively cultivated in Lake Biwa. These pearls were formed by the freshwater mussels of the Hyriopsis cumingii species, which thrived in the lake’s waters. The unique environment of Lake Biwa, with its favourable water quality and temperature, contributed to the development of exceptional pearls.
One of the defining features of Biwa pearls is their unconventional and diverse shapes. Rather than the traditional spherical or near-spherical forms, Biwa pearls exhibit irregular, asymmetrical shapes that resemble sticks, rice grains, or other organic shapes. This natural uniqueness adds a distinct charm to each pearl, making them highly sought after by jewellery enthusiasts and collectors.
Biwa pearls are available in a wide range of colours, including white, cream, pink, lavender, and even rare metallic shades. Their lustrous surfaces enhance the visual appeal of these pearls, showcasing a captivating glow that adds to their allure.
While Lake Biwa was historically the primary source of Biwa pearls, cultivation in the lake declined significantly due to environmental changes and pollution. As a result, the availability of genuine Biwa pearls has become more limited. However, Biwa-style pearls, resembling the original Biwa pearls, are now produced in other freshwater pearl farming regions.
COIN PEARLS
Coin pearls are a variety of cultured pearls known for their flat, coin-like shape and smooth surfaces. These pearls are prized for their unusual form, resembling small coins or discs, which sets them apart from traditional spherical pearls.
The unique shape of coin pearls is a result of their cultivation process. They are typically formed by inserting a flat nucleus into the mollusc, encouraging the growth of a pearl with a flattened profile. This intentional shaping technique produces pearls that closely resemble coins, hence their name.
Coin pearls are predominantly cultured in freshwater environments, particularly in China. They are cultivated in various species of freshwater mussels, such as the Hyriopsis cumingii and Hyriopsis schlegelii, which are known for their ability to produce a range of pearl shapes.
These pearls are available in a range of sizes, from small discs measuring around 8mm to larger pieces that can reach up to 20mm in diameter. Their size, combined with their flat shape, makes them highly versatile for jewellery designs, offering a bold and contemporary aesthetic.
Coin pearls come in a variety of colours, including white, cream, pink, lavender, and even shades of metallic tones. Their smooth surfaces often showcase a lustrous, reflective quality that adds to their appeal. Some coin pearls may exhibit natural blemishes or unique patterns, enhancing their individuality and character.
While pearls can been seen just about everywhere, different pearls can be used for different occasions.
Understanding the different types of pearls is the first step to finding the perfect pearl for any event or space.
NATURAL PEARLS
A wild, natural pearl is extremely rare, so if you get your hands on one, hold on to it!
Natural pearls are made almost completely of calcium carbonate and conchiolin, with no human assistance.
These pearls come in a variety of shapes, and perfectly round ones are the rarest.
CULTURED PEARLS
You are probably familiar with cultured pearls, which are created on a farm and made in either freshwater or saltwater. Not all mollusks create pearls, and when they are created, they may not be of high quality.
Cultured pearls are typically a uniform shape and size, but can be dyed any color.
Cultured pearls are sold at a variety of prices based on quality and rarity of the type. There are 4 distinct types of cultured pearls. They are Akoya (saltwater), freshwater, South Sea and Tahitian. Here’s a closer look at each.
AKOYA PEARLS
Commonly seen with white color and rose overtones, the finest Akoya pearls come from Japanese pearls farms.
The roundest and most lustrous of these saltwater pearls are considerably more perfectly round and smoother than other types of cultured pearls.
SOUTH SEA PEARLS
Found in Australia, Philippines and Indonesia, the South Sea pearls are among the rarest and most valuable of pearls. South Sea pearls are hard to miss and they stand out from other pearls usually due to their ability to grow larger than other types of cultured pearls.
South Sea pearls are large in size and range in color from optic white to a deep, honey gold. These pearls have a soft, luxurious reflection.
Be prepared to pay a pretty penny for these rare, but high-quality pearls.
TAHITIAN PEARLS
These pearls are known for their natural exotic black color — but don’t be fooled, they can come in any color including light creamy white, greens and deep black. The color comes from the oyster’s black lips.
Tahitian pearls are farmed in French Polynesia, not Tahiti like the name suggests.
FRESHWATER PEARLS
This varietal of pearl grows in mussels that live in rivers and lakes and are most commonly found in China. Mussels can create more than one pearl at a time.
Pearls found in freshwater will look less lustrous and glossy than saltwater pearls.
Freshwater pearls come in a variety of shapes and colors and are usually cheaper than saltwater pearls therefore they are commonly used for multi-strand necklaces and bracelets.
Now take this knowledge — and your pearls — and go impress some people at your next party.
written by: Alyssa Groh, 22CM Boost